Archive for June, 2009

The Curry Club

Thursday, June 25th, 2009

I’m a huge fan of the curry. But that has not always been the case. I blame my early years for this.

My mother is half Irish and Welsh (born in Ealing). My father is half Indian and French Mauritian (Born in Pakistan). My mum cannot cook, well strictly that’s not entirely true, she makes a mean banana bread and cherry cake, but truth be told she just doesn’t enjoy it. On a Sunday night she will reach for the pataks curry paste and throw a pot of chicken or mince curry together that will feed my father until Friday when he treats himself to a fish and chips on the way home from the station.

When my brother and I were kids mum would make us the usual ‘kids dinner’ - sausages and beans, shepherds pie, spag bol. Occasionally she got adventurous and ‘lemon chicken’ would grace the mid week menu meal plan, but mostly this resulted in many hours of sulking at the table (we were not allowed to leave until we had finished) and screams to our father as he arrived back from London (more often that not he would ‘nip out’ for a fag and come back with popadoms for us and a take away curry for himself).

Once we got past the age of 10 we were promoted to the curry bowl. In itself we did not detest curry, it was more the fact we tired of it. So every month when the whole extended family descended on my nan on a Sunday afternoon – her tiny dining room table was rammed with pots of steaming chicken byrani, curries in all sorts of shapes and all sorts of colourful accompaniments – my brother and I would rejoice at the roast chicken and boiled potatoes she cooked up separately for the children.

I am ashamed to admit it was not until I was 21 years old that it all clicked into place and I realised what a fool I had been. Like all young adults, fending for ones self at university quickly turns you into a very unfussy eater. So naturally anything free is a bonus. I remember clearly the first Sunday at my nans as a poor student, too hungry to care, I piled my plate high and shoveled in the food.

My hallelujah moment.

Since then I have never looked back. I have joined the bun fight for leftovers along with my father, six uncles and six aunties and MANY cousins. Armed with my take away box on arrival, I (usually) come away with enough for tea the next day. The boyfriend still can’t grasp why I cannot share my precious bounty – isn’t it obvious? I am making up for 21 years of choosing chicken and boiled potatoes.

The Wild Card Monday Night Curry Club starts on the 27 July, first on the hit list – Tayyabs http://www.tayyabs.co.uk/

Fiona

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Cornish delight

Monday, June 22nd, 2009

The choice of foodie events in the UK is phenomenal and not least a satisfying reminder of what great produce we have on our doorstep.

I kicked the month off with a trip to The Royal Cornwall Show in Wadebridge. With a smorgasbord of Cornwall’s finest producers, and glorious sunshine to boot, I was set for serious foodie exploration.

Off to the Food and Farming Pavilion, where there were over 60 exceptional local producers on show, I began by sampling Cornwall’s unique cheeses, Cornish Yarg, Cornish Brie and goats cheese. Easy on the pallet they make the perfect partner to a cracker spread with lightly spiced homemade chutney.

I took little time in getting to Deli Farm Charcuterie to treat myself to its delicious salamis and cured meats made exclusively from pork reared in the county. So good that an Italian chef next to me even refused to believe its origin! I then took part in a Cornish Sea Salt taste test, with Cornish Orchards scrummy apple juice on standby to quench my thirst.

Wandering towards Eden’s Project’s beer garden and BBC Radio Cornwall, it was interesting to see that not only the farm animals compete here, but also the agricultural machinery. This is to help develop new ideas and equipment to be used by local farmers. A new take on plough to plate technology!

I continued my venture past the dairy animals and flower marquee for my final tasting of true farmyard scrumpy, not quite as refined as a cider, but the queue for refills was enough to tempt me. I headed home as the music played and the human cannonball flew, another flying start for The Royal Cornwall Show.

Rosie

Wild West Frontiers

Friday, June 19th, 2009

Truro Beach

Having opened in Truro and with a great clutch of clients already under our belt, it was felt that it is was time for Wild West to investigate the food world and opportunities further West – down St Ives-way.

St Ives is much loved by the artists for its white sands, blue seas and, yes, a truly clearer and more iridescent light. A burgeoning food reputation on the back of the Porthminster Café and the Gurnard’s Head, but equally an image of a resort (only reinforced by the cluster of dedicated sea facing benches) where one’s grandparents religiously holidayed every year for forty years. Staying no doubt in the same Edwardian guesthouse every year, the hotel selection was limited – surely there is a huge opportunity here for an entrepreneurial hotelier. Not helped by the fact that we booked late, but we were lucky to get one night in the Boskerris Hotel – recommended by Mr and Mrs Smith and a great find situated on the cliff (albeit rather built up) above Carbis Bay.

We kicked off with lunch at the Porthminster with some exceptional Helford Oysters with grilled chorizo and wasabi. Hand dived scallops and fish very fresh (as it should be!) followed with fries, which could have been crisper. Simon (husband and Wild Card Ops director) was thrilled to find tamarillos on the pudding selection. He fondly recalls tamarillos - or what he calls tree tomatoes – from his time as a boy growing up in New Zealand.

The next day we moved on to a very chic departure in bed & breakfast accommodation, The Lighthouse (again on Carbis Bay). The day was spent on the stunning Sennen Cove where the surf is, it is said, always three feet higher than anywhere else in Cornwall. The waves were proving too much for even a couple of intrepid kite surfers (now there is an untapped opportunity for some clever branding) so we sat on the terrace above the beach at The Beach Restaurant , eating flat bread pizzas (far removed from anything you would find at Pizza Express). Having tracked down our favourite Kelly’s Ice Cream, we watched a cartwheeling collie dog and waves crashing over the sea wall.

Dinner that night was at the Pedn Olva where we had heard that an ex-Rick Stein chef, Mark Devonshire, had taken up residence. A rather Cold War approach at reception nearly deterred us but we persevered – my Cornish rib eye steak was perfect but the ambience and service was disappointing.

Pedn Olva

The next evening we headed out of St Ives to Zennor and The Gurnard’s Head, through extraordinarily wild and rocky countryside, reminiscent of the most extreme parts of the Scottish Islands. A sister establishment to the Felin Fach in Wales, The Gurnard’s Head has quickly established itself as the must-visit restaurant in the area (it is also a b&b). The food and wine did not disappoint, although I was quick to avoid the mostarda di cremona which definitely has marmite qualities (memories of my early Merchant Gourmet days when I had to eat and pretend to enjoy!).

On our last day we headed off to Porthmeor Beach, another stunning surfing beach under Tate St Ives and until only twenty five years ago ludicrously graced with two massive gas containers. Newly opened by Jenna Woolcock, a local girl who recently moved back to St Ives, The Porthmeor Beach Café was a brilliant find. We enjoyed the famed local Vicky’s organic bread with crab and green pea pesto aranchini, finishing up with a cup of the best Origin Coffee. A very laid back atmosphere and highly recommended.

Kate

Porthmeor Beach

Probably the best club in the world

Thursday, June 11th, 2009

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Unremarkable from the outside, you might be forgiven for overlooking the Helford River Sailing Club. In one of the most idyllic parts of West Cornwall overlooking a stupendously beautiful creek, it’s not the most eye-catching sight on the vista. But beneath the clapboard exterior is a restaurant that more than deserves its knock-out views over the brook.

Although a sailing club, many of the clientele who visit do so purely for the nosh. Greg Laskey (former head chef of the renowned New Yard Restaurant) has recently taken over the helm to create really rather excellent food. Perhaps his arrival might explain the 700% increase in membership enquiries.

Using ingredients on the doorstep (some sourced quite literally on the doorstep - the fish is landed right in front of the restaurant), Laskey’s menu changes daily. His dishes are unfussy and unpretentious. On a recent visit, I was treated to simply prepared Helford asparagus with a poached egg and Hollandaise sauce, locally caught pan-fried skate wing with a caper butter sauce and seasonal veg, rounded off with dark rum panna cotta and local strawberries. All of it was utterly delicious. The asparagus was just as it should be, freshly picked, tender and with a satisfying bite, the skate delicate in texture and perfectly cooked and the panna cotta deliciously rich, a fine conclusion to the lighter asparagus and skate dishes.

What’s more, the club is subsidised and so some very respectable wines are on offer for next to nothing. Since the stewards are technically guests of the club, and are not paying rent, value for money is outstanding. A three-course meal for five including wine was less than £100. Absolutely fantastic.

Joss

Thou shall have a fishy on a little dishy…

Tuesday, June 9th, 2009

As much as I love the culinary delights London has to offer, it was fantastic to escape the hustle and bustle of the capital for a couple of days recently and jet off to sunny (no really) Scotland for the weekend.

The weather was glorious, the company splendid and the wine plentiful, but it was the food that really stole the show. We were on The Isle of Mull so as you can imagine restaurants were hardly on every corner so we were forced to fend for ourselves. On the second day of the holiday we got up early and met the boats at the harbour and haggled with the fishermen to get the best price for their freshly caught lobster, crab, langoustines, oysters, mussels and scallops. It was then up to us to transport these still very much alive creatures back to the house. To this day my car still smells vaguely of the sea.

Once back at the ranch I was given my marching orders in the kitchen and was soon getting my Nigella on, shucking oysters and marinating moules like a pro. I even cooked my first lobster (4 minutes in boiling water I’ll have you know). It was brilliant.

By early evening the table was set and positively groaning under a veritable feast of fresher-than-fresh seafood. We started with the oysters, served with lemon juice and Tabasco, followed by the langoustines, lobster, mussels, crab and scallops, all served with hunks of bread, green salad and a good dollop of mayonnaise. It was truly one of the most magnificent meals I have ever had and yet it was so simple. And it tasted all the more delicious because we had cooked it ourselves. It was the highlight of the holiday, and definitely something we’ll be doing again when we head back to the west coast of bonnie Scotland next year.

Lucy

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Summer drinks in Central London

Friday, June 5th, 2009

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So the sun has come out, which is fantastic, but this throws us into a bit of a quandary. Our regular London drinking haunts are normally defined by the following criteria: is it undercover? How warm is it? How cheap is the wine? But come summer we can no longer hole ourselves up in the cellars of London’s finest drinking establishments, but have to branch out to outdoor areas.

So to help those of you who are finding it tough to find somewhere open air to drink in Central London, here are my favourite finds.

The Queen Mary – A boat permanently docked at embankment with the biggest sundeck. Perfect for a summertime Pimms. (nearest tube: Embankment)

The Porterhouse – Grab yourself an outdoor seat at this ever-busy pub. With a huge range of beers, this is a great one for the boys (nearest tube: Covent Garden)

Somerset House Dusk Bar – If you have the opportunity, head down to Somerset House for a drink in the temporary bar and watch the sun go down on the Thames (nearest tube: Holborn/Embankment)

Now all we have to do is enjoy the sunshine and hope it lasts!

Amanda
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A Grand surprise in Brixton

Tuesday, June 2nd, 2009

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Always a pessimist when it comes to chain pubs, I was reluctant to walk five metres down the road to the venue for my housemate’s birthday… this wasn’t my idea of where I wanted to spend my Saturday night! But the Grand Union pleasantly surprised me.

Situated between Brixton and Clapham North tube stations, the Grand Union is easy to find. On entering you are immediately confronted by the artistically vintage décor, whether it be the sixties ornaments on the ceiling or flowery yet chic wallpapers lining the bar. In fact, the venue itself could well have been designed by C.S. Lewis – but the interior is largely irrelevant when you walk though the back door (or should that be wardrobe?) and in to the beer garden. A vast expanse of plants and rocks create an oasis of wine clinking calm on the outskirts of Brixton. The area is dominated by four wooden huts on stilts - each named after islands in Thailand – that come equipped with their own patio heaters for those chillier summer afternoons. There are also plenty of benches and tables for those unlucky enough not to have secured a hut.

We decided to head to the Grand Union again on the Sunday afternoon to quench our appetites (and possibly soak up some of the alcohol). I had the meat-free burger - it arrived as a towering construction, resembling an edible version of jenga – just what I was after. The burger had been cooked on a BBQ or grill, blackened on the outside, with just the right amount of crunch, whilst still remaining moist on the inside. The bun was perfectly toasted as well. The only downside for my taste was the vast lettuce leaf, which shrouded the burger like an organic duvet. At around £7 it was good value. We bought an additional bowl of chips, which were, admittedly, a treat – a golden and crispy exterior encasing a fluffy, cloud-light filling.

All in all, I was thoroughly impressed with my weekend spent in Grand Union.

Natalie