Unremarkable from the outside, you might be forgiven for overlooking the Helford River Sailing Club. In one of the most idyllic parts of West Cornwall overlooking a stupendously beautiful creek, it’s not the most eye-catching sight on the vista. But beneath the clapboard exterior is a restaurant that more than deserves its knock-out views over the brook.
Although a sailing club, many of the clientele who visit do so purely for the nosh. Greg Laskey (former head chef of the renowned New Yard Restaurant) has recently taken over the helm to create really rather excellent food. Perhaps his arrival might explain the 700% increase in membership enquiries.
Using ingredients on the doorstep (some sourced quite literally on the doorstep - the fish is landed right in front of the restaurant), Laskey’s menu changes daily. His dishes are unfussy and unpretentious. On a recent visit, I was treated to simply prepared Helford asparagus with a poached egg and Hollandaise sauce, locally caught pan-fried skate wing with a caper butter sauce and seasonal veg, rounded off with dark rum panna cotta and local strawberries. All of it was utterly delicious. The asparagus was just as it should be, freshly picked, tender and with a satisfying bite, the skate delicate in texture and perfectly cooked and the panna cotta deliciously rich, a fine conclusion to the lighter asparagus and skate dishes.
What’s more, the club is subsidised and so some very respectable wines are on offer for next to nothing. Since the stewards are technically guests of the club, and are not paying rent, value for money is outstanding. A three-course meal for five including wine was less than £100. Absolutely fantastic.