Having opened in Truro and with a great clutch of clients already under our belt, it was felt that it is was time for Wild West to investigate the food world and opportunities further West – down St Ives-way.
St Ives is much loved by the artists for its white sands, blue seas and, yes, a truly clearer and more iridescent light. A burgeoning food reputation on the back of the Porthminster Café and the Gurnard’s Head, but equally an image of a resort (only reinforced by the cluster of dedicated sea facing benches) where one’s grandparents religiously holidayed every year for forty years. Staying no doubt in the same Edwardian guesthouse every year, the hotel selection was limited – surely there is a huge opportunity here for an entrepreneurial hotelier. Not helped by the fact that we booked late, but we were lucky to get one night in the Boskerris Hotel – recommended by Mr and Mrs Smith and a great find situated on the cliff (albeit rather built up) above Carbis Bay.
We kicked off with lunch at the Porthminster with some exceptional Helford Oysters with grilled chorizo and wasabi. Hand dived scallops and fish very fresh (as it should be!) followed with fries, which could have been crisper. Simon (husband and Wild Card Ops director) was thrilled to find tamarillos on the pudding selection. He fondly recalls tamarillos - or what he calls tree tomatoes – from his time as a boy growing up in New Zealand.
The next day we moved on to a very chic departure in bed & breakfast accommodation, The Lighthouse (again on Carbis Bay). The day was spent on the stunning Sennen Cove where the surf is, it is said, always three feet higher than anywhere else in Cornwall. The waves were proving too much for even a couple of intrepid kite surfers (now there is an untapped opportunity for some clever branding) so we sat on the terrace above the beach at The Beach Restaurant , eating flat bread pizzas (far removed from anything you would find at Pizza Express). Having tracked down our favourite Kelly’s Ice Cream, we watched a cartwheeling collie dog and waves crashing over the sea wall.
Dinner that night was at the Pedn Olva where we had heard that an ex-Rick Stein chef, Mark Devonshire, had taken up residence. A rather Cold War approach at reception nearly deterred us but we persevered – my Cornish rib eye steak was perfect but the ambience and service was disappointing.
The next evening we headed out of St Ives to Zennor and The Gurnard’s Head, through extraordinarily wild and rocky countryside, reminiscent of the most extreme parts of the Scottish Islands. A sister establishment to the Felin Fach in Wales, The Gurnard’s Head has quickly established itself as the must-visit restaurant in the area (it is also a b&b). The food and wine did not disappoint, although I was quick to avoid the mostarda di cremona which definitely has marmite qualities (memories of my early Merchant Gourmet days when I had to eat and pretend to enjoy!).
On our last day we headed off to Porthmeor Beach, another stunning surfing beach under Tate St Ives and until only twenty five years ago ludicrously graced with two massive gas containers. Newly opened by Jenna Woolcock, a local girl who recently moved back to St Ives, The Porthmeor Beach Café was a brilliant find. We enjoyed the famed local Vicky’s organic bread with crab and green pea pesto aranchini, finishing up with a cup of the best Origin Coffee. A very laid back atmosphere and highly recommended.
